Sunday 4 August 2013

Beirut - So much more than you expect


Beirut is a city of juxtapositions, glittering nightlife mixed with architectural delights and silent reminders of the past troubles. In early June Bacchus set off with a group of savvy journalists for our food and beverage press trip.

The first night, slightly weary from the flight, we were greeted with the opulence of the Phoenicia hotel, the grande dame of the Middle East that has majestically stood overlooking the Mediterranean for the past 50 years and we were treated to a delicious Lebanese feast by the outdoor pool on Amethyste terrace, which showcased the fabulous offerings all the restaurants at the hotel have to offer. The bolder members of the trip headed out for their first sample of Lebanese nightlife to White, an incredible rooftop bar with lasers, plenty of dancing and superb cityscape views.


The next morning, after a restorative breakfast at Mosaic, we were taken to IXSIR vineyard with the informative Alain Feghali who taught us all about Beirut's history on the way. The IXSIR vineyard was a delight, one of the 12 greenest buildings in the world due to its eco architecture. After a tour of the building we got to the main event, the wine tasting. Impressively the wines are already stocked in Nobu, Hakkassan and Selfridges, so we were even more impressed with how delicious they were especially the IXSIR Rose. 
Byblos was the next destination where we discovered Pepe Abed, a sleepy fish restaurant that was "just like St Tropez before anyone knew about it." Delicious fried fish was washed down with more Lebanese Rose before we embarked on learning more about the history of Byblos and visiting the ruins that dated back to 7000BC.
 
After a late afternoon of lazing by the pool we headed out to dinner at the infamous MOMO at the Souks, a treasure trove of tagines, cous cous and Rania - the GM and best unofficial tour guide Beirut has to offer. Filled with delicious food and Rania's suggestions on the best night out we headed to Decks on the Beach where we danced until dawn and fell in love with the DJ, Isaac Tischauer, some quite literally.

The next day the survivors were treated to a city tour encompassing the best of Beirut  from design, culinary delights and art. Namely Sarah's Bag, Urbanista café, the jewellery designer Paola Chartouni, furniture designer Nada Debs, furniture designer Karina Sukar and the house of Annabel Karim Kassar.

Perhaps my favourite lunch of the trip was then had at the newly opened La Petite Maison - octopus carpaccio, the freshest buratta and the best aubergine with mozzarella and crayfish I have ever tasted, mainly because the ingredients are sourced locally from the abundantly fruitful Bekaa Valley. Sunshine and the pool were the only order for the afternoon and snoozing of course.


After a delicious dinner at Eau de Vie restaurant on the 22nd floor of the Phoenicia, where the crème de la crème dine and then dance to the fantastic live band, we experienced the Beirut 'Super Club'. SKY BAR is a 4,000 capacity roof top bar which is where the serious party animals come, needless to say we had to join them as we like to offer an authentic experience.


The next morning, we checked in for our final night at Le Vendome hotel, the stunning boutique sister hotel of the Phoenicia. Known for its ultimate discretion and amazing service, it is the first point of call for any VIP staying in Beirut. We spent a recovery day at IRIS beach club, the perfect antidote to many a sore head. Chillout tunes, plenty of burgers and pizza, lots of swimming and the most amazing giant watermelon cocktail! To round off the trip we were treated to the most authentic Lebanese meal we have had at Falamanki. After seeing one member of the party whisked away in a side car of a motorbike to the final destination of the trip, we enjoyed farewell drinks at IRIS roof top bar and "cheersed" one last time to an amazing city.
 
Beirut is one of the most hospitable countries I have ever been to. The people are so accommodating and friendly and although we read reports in Britain of conflict, it is a very calm and relaxed city when you are there. If you haven’t been to Beirut, you need to go, you will have the time of your life.

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